Croatia Travel Blog

This is the first time in a number of years that I’ve been to Croatia during the tourist season (although not at the height, which would be in July and August) and my trip held a number of surprises.

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Dalmatia’s answer to the splendid Plitvice Lakes National Park, the impressive network of lakes, rivers and falls of Krka National Park are easily accessible from the coastal cities of Zadar, Sibenik and Split. What’s not so easy is arranging a visit that takes you all through the park, as I found out.

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It is a jewel of a town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site but Trogir was unbelievably crowded, even in mid-June. Pleasure boats crowded the Trogir quay; there were tour groups, gulet-cruising groups and hordes of other camera-clickers. The celebrated cathedral has been fully restored and maybe even over-restored. Parts of the facade looked just too new. I was also surprised at the 15HRK fee to enter but shouldn’t have been; it’s a bargain at twice the price. The large parking lot outside the Old Town was nearly full even though parking is a steep 15HRK/hour, the most expensive on the coast.

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I always enjoy visiting Split, the Adriatic’s most vibrant city. The town is all hustle and bustle even as the seaside Promenade makes for a relaxing stroll.

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Vis Island has always been one of my favourites and it didn’t disappoint me this time. Even as the rest of the coast is crowded with visitors, Vis remains relatively relaxed probably because it takes nearly 3 hours to get there by ferry from Split.

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Every trip to Croatia I learn something new and, I hope, useful to others. I’ve always known that Jadrolinija ups their prices for the June to September ferries but it never really hit home because I usually travel to Croatia off-season.

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At first, I thought it would be a good idea to stay in central Trogir. I’m so glad I didn’t. Although the architecture of this World Heritage Site is wonderful, it’s not exactly a hidden treasure. Wow, was it busy! So, I stayed in Ciovo, a beach resort just outside the Old Town, and sampled the hospitality of Ira and Boris Rakic who run Villa Pape.

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Posted under Croatia Accommodation & Split & Accommodation | No Comments »

To me, one of the ultimate hotel luxuries is being able to fall asleep to the sound of waves on the shoreline. Air-conditioning is nice of course, but if I can leave the windows open and get a refreshing  breeze while the sea’s rhythm lulls me to sleep, I’m in heaven. And I was in heaven at the four-star Dubrovnik President Hotel. 

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I’ve known the Bebic family for years, ever since I first started writing Lonely Planet guides, so staying at the Pansion Bebic in  Lumbarda  was a kind of homecoming. But I think it’s kind of a homecoming for everyone that stays at their hospitable guesthouse. Just walking into their terrace-restaurant makes you feel at home. Their spacious dining terrace forms a center to the modern and comfortable apartments and rooms that make up this traditional pension. And, it signals the importance of meals to the “Bebic Experience”. 

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Posted under Croatia Accommodation & Korcula Island & Accommodation | No Comments »

I don’t know about you but I rely a lot more on pictures than I do on prose when choosing a hotel. One person’s “modern” is another person”s “bland”. The hotel I find quaint you might find old-fashioned. Maybe because of the internet, I would find it nearly unthinkable to book a hotel now without examining a series of pictures.

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