Croatia Travel Blog

Valsabbion Restaurant

For years Valsabbion restaurant, just outside Pula, has been considered one of Croatia’s finest gastronomic restaurants, maybe even the finest. Part of the Valsabbion hotel, the restaurant was known for its creative, even daring dishes, a rarity along the Croatian coast where expertly grilled fish is usually enough to please the crowd. Yes, it was pricey relative to other local restaurants but the quality was superb. A similar meal would cost many times more in neighbouring Italy. What happened? In an interview, owner Sonja Peric remarked that the cost of running such a restaurant was extremely high and the profits were negligible. It seems that the local population does not have the financial means to support such a restaurant and tourists are too easily satisfied with a seaside inn serving inexpensive food.

It’s a serious blow to the Croatian gastronomic scene just at a time when Croatian food and wine is starting to attract international attention. Yes there are other restaurants in Pula but none, frankly, at that level.

St Blaise

Dubrovnik in February? But of course. In the beginning of February Dubrovnik denizens turn out in force to celebrate their beloved city. The occasion is the Festival of St Blaise (Sv Vlaho), the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Statues of St Blaise dot the walled city and of course there is the splendid Church of St Blaise at the beginning of Stradun. It was to St Blaise that fearful residents prayed during the bombing of Dubrovnik in 1991.

Before the official opening of the festival on February 2 there are several weeks of special concerts, plays and exhibitions centered on the theme of St Blaise. February 3 is the feast day of St Blaise and for the two following days religious and secular events mark the special connection of Dubrovnik with Saint Blaise.

Here is the schedule of events for this year’s festival:
Thursday, February 2, 2012

Croatia ferries are an essential means of getting around Croatia and now the schedules for spring 2012 are finally online. Click here to find links to all the local ferry schedules as well as my handy downloadable Dalmatia Ferry Guide which contains all the local ferries between Split and Dubrovnik along with prices and handy booking information.

Jadrolinija is the main operator of Croatia ferries. The state-run ferry company handles all car ferries while a few other local operator  handle passenger ferries. Jadrolinija changes their schedules at least twice a year and the timetables are usually published at the last minute. Why? As the company is state-supported, the government needs to officially approve the schedules. Each year it seems like essential ferry route information languishes on some minister’s desk while thousands of visitors patiently await his/her approval in order to plan their holiday.

Little has changed since the autumn schedules but note that these schedules will change in June. There will be many more ferries in the summer season from Jadrolinija, including the popular coastal car ferry. Check back later for updates!

One of Croatia’s most popular music festivals will have a change of venue this year. The Garden Festival began in Zadar, moved to nearby Petrcane and will now be held in Tisno, on Murter Island some 29km north of Sibenik. Founded by Nick Colgan a former Irish footballer,  this musically adventurous festival is a huge favourite with British holiday-makers. The new venue is easily accessible from both Zadar and Split airports and offers improved accommodation facilities for backpackers and campers. In an interview, Mr Colgan explains that “The Garden Tisno has its very own village, featuring 80 on-site apartments which can hold 300 people, as well as 30 Indian Shikar tents with electric fans and lighting, proper beds, mosquito nets, dressing room and porch area. There are also 120 pitches for people bringing their own tents. It will also feature the familiar elements everyone knows and loves ‘ twice daily parties on the Argonaughty seadog including sunset trips close to the Kornati Islands, partying around the Main Stage and Tiki Bar day and night and a brand new Barbarellas club. The entire site runs right along a truly gorgeous shoreline, so dancing right by the glittering waters under the sizzling sun or a moonlit star-speckled sky – classic Garden experiences ‘ remain, helping to keep the festival so unique.” So set aside July 4th to 11th this year!

Dubrovnik Cliffs

When former tourism minister, Pave Zupan Ruskovic, commented that Dubrovnik could do without “drunk and crazy” Kiwis and Aussies, she was pilloried and then sacked from her job as destination manager in Dubrovnik. Tourism authorities hastened to reassure visitors from Down Under that they were more than welcome. But was she right? Could it be that these young revelers are a menace to themselves and others?

According to an Australian newspaper, there were no less than five Aussie backpackers in a year who plunged from southern Croatian cliffs into the waters below, some narrowly escaping with their lives. From slipping down ravines to misjudging cliff dives, the toll in injuries has been fierce. Is it unreasonable to assume that alcohol has played a role in these accidents? I think not.

Despite the speed with which Ms. Ruskovic lost her job, it appears that Aussies themselves agree with her. Sydney-based The Age conducted an online poll and found that 91% of respondents agreed that “the truth hurts–Australians behave appallingly”. Ouch.

Any visitor to Dubrovnik needs to be aware that binge-drinking is not–yet– a part of Croatian youth culture. Most Croatians have a Mediterranean attitude towards drinking: they appreciate wine with meals and homemade schnapps but getting blackout drunk is usually not their scene. And another thing to remember: the waters under Dubrovnik cliffs cover sharp rocks!