Posts Tagged ‘Trogir’
December 2nd, 2009 | 
Author: It’s official now. CNN has proclaimed Croatia the new destination for celebs in 2010. Now that Dubai has come down with a nasty and most un-cool case of bankruptcy, the A-List needs another haunt to hide from the likes of you. With a galaxy of spots for yachts and 1185 islands, Gwyneth, Sharon, Clint & Andre (all previous Croatia visitors) will have no trouble escaping your prying eyes.
Even the lesser lights are finding themselves in Croatia although they, poor things, have to work. Currently filming in Trogir is an episode of the BBC series, Doctor Who with actor Matt Smith in the title role. It’s all very hush-hush but apparently will involve vampires or Van Gogh or something. And, a local source has whispered that Nicolas Cage will be filming Rob Cohen’s “Medieval” in Trogir, Split and Dubrovnik in the spring of 2010.
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It is a jewel of a town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site but Trogir was unbelievably crowded, even in mid-June. Pleasure boats crowded the Trogir quay; there were tour groups, gulet-cruising groups and hordes of other camera-clickers. The celebrated cathedral has been fully restored and maybe even over-restored. Parts of the facade looked just too new. I was also surprised at the 15HRK fee to enter but shouldn’t have been; it’s a bargain at twice the price. The large parking lot outside the Old Town was nearly full even though parking is a steep 15HRK/hour, the most expensive on the coast.
The best way to visit Trogir is either by taking the bus from Split or, even better, staying in Ciovo and strolling into town early in the morning before the tourists arrive.
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At first, I thought it would be a good idea to stay in central Trogir. I’m so glad I didn’t. Although the architecture of this World Heritage Site is wonderful, it’s not exactly a hidden treasure. Wow, was it busy! So, I stayed in Ciovo, a beach resort just outside the Old Town, and sampled the hospitality of Ira and Boris Rakic who run Villa Pape.
I’ve often extolled the virtues of staying in private accommodation in Croatia, and Villa Pape is one of the reasons why. Set on a hill overlooking the Ciovo islet, the guesthouse is in a quiet location away from the hubub. It’s easy to reach Trogir but who wants to? Ira and Boris have created such a warm and welcoming atmosphere in their guesthouse, it’s hard to leave. I felt so at home in my spacious, well-outfitted apartment I could have stayed forever. For those new to the region, Ira provides a wealth of sightseeing tips as she has made a study of local history and lore, especially the Roman ruins of Salona.
And, here’s a tip: sample one of Ira’s homecooked meals. The lady is an amazing cook, specializing in the kind of local fare you don’t find in restaurants. The Villa Pape website has some good recipes but there’s nothing like letting the expert cook. Plus, Ira is committed to supporting local products and sustainable agriculture. No store-bought produce for her!
Villa Pape has an assortment of rooms and apartments, all modern and reasonably-priced.
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