Posts Tagged ‘Dubrovnik’

It’s not enough to be the “pearl of the Adriatic”; Dubrovnik would also like to be part of Croatia. Politically, it’s part of the country but geographically, not so much. As part of the agreement settling the former war in Yugoslavia, Bosnia-Hercegovina was awarded an outlet to the sea at Neum, 160km to the north. That means that in order to go from Dubrovnik to the rest of Croatia along the coast, you have to pass through a border control. All well and good; the war is over; let bygones be bygones. It’s not as though Croatians or anyone else have a problem crossing the Neum checkpoint. But still, it’s disagreeable, which is why several years ago the government devised a plan to bypass the Bosnian border by building a bridge to the Peljesac Peninsula. The expensive plan proved controversial as some accused it of being a government boondoggle meant to line the pockets of politicians. So it was put on hold. Also put on hold was the planned extension of the Rijeka-Split motorway down to Dubrovnik.

Austerity is austerity but when transportation minister Zlatko Komadina announced that there was no money for the Peljesac Bridge or for extending the motorway while at the same time Rijeka was to get another highway, Dubrovnik citizens were dismayed. The dismay turned to fury when Ivan Dadić a supervisor with the Croatia Roads Authority commented that Dubrovnik really didn’t need the bridge or the highway because “in Dubrovnik nobody moved during the tourist season” anyway and as for the border: “In my opinion it is enough to have a ferry and to wait for ten years until Bosnia and Herzegovina enters the EU, then the problems with the border at Neum will disappear”. In the meantime, “Dubrovnik is well-connected by air”.

Nice. Let me assure you, Mr. Dadic, that  the visitors I’ve been writing for over the last 15 years want to visit Split, Dubrovnik and several islands in between. And they need to do it fast because they often have only a week or 10 days in Croatia. It isn’t just about Dubrovnik; it’s about tourism in the entire southeastern tip of Croatia. If your idea is to fly people into Dubrovnik and keep them imprisoned there, it hurts the whole region. Please remove foot from mouth and insert brain in head.

The cost of your accommodation is the priciest part of your vacation in Dubrovnik. Even though new hotels are sprouting up everywhere and much of the Old Town has been turned into apartment rentals, the demand is so huge that owners ask for and get top price. But you don’t want to blow your entire budget on accommodation when there’s so much else to do,  from sampling fine restaurants to exploring the surrounding islands! Here are five tips to getting the most value for money in Dubrovnik.

• From the beginning of June until mid- September five-star hotels run from €189 to €630 for a classic double with breakfast included. In May and late September prices are about 20% cheaper. Go in April or October and you save yet another 15 to 20%. BTW, breakfast is always included in Dubrovnik hotels; you can’t save money by opting out.

• Book now if you’re going in the summer season. Standard doubles sell out fastest. As you get closer to the summer, only the luxury rooms and suites remain.

• Consider an apartment. A three or four-star apartment is just as beautifully decorated and well-equipped as their hotel counterparts. Each unit is measured and rated by the tourist authorities. What don’t you get? Breakfast. No rolling down to a beautifully appointed buffet with an array of treats. What you do get is a kitchen to breakfast as you wish. Book early though, as the buildings are smaller and have fewer units.

• Consider staying in Lapad. This leafy community also has great hotels but is not quite walking distance to the Old Town. Hotels in the Old Town and in nearby Ploce are more expensive. From Lapad it’s a short ride on Dubrovnik’s easy public transport system. Plus, there’s easy parking and beaches are nearby.

• Negotiate a discount for a longer stay. Hotel prices are fixed but in private accommodation at the budget level you can usually work something out if you stay a week. Facilities are less than luxurious but the location is often excellent.

I like to use Croatia-based Adriagate for a week-long stay as they represent many smaller owners so you get a great price and a much more personal experience.

For a hotel or classy accommodation, I prefer booking.com for the low-price guarantee. It gives me peace of mind to know I’ve nabbed the best possible deal.

See more Dubrovnik accommodation tips.

Schedules, prices, booking information, tips

Want to island-hop in Croatia this summer? Or are you just waiting for the ferry schedules to plan your holiday in Croatia? All the Split to Dubrovnik local ferry schedules from June 1 to September 30 are now available. The last hold-out was Jadrolinija, Croatia’s national ferry company which has not yet officially published their coastal car ferry schedule. They sent it to me this week though, along with the prices. I’ve also been able to obtain the not-yet-published versions of a few other schedules including the Orebic-Korcula and the Split-Trogir passenger ferry. All these schedules plus prices and booking information are now available for download in my popular Dalmatia Ferry Guide. Over the next week, I’ll be updating all the schedules on Croatia Traveller as well.

Prices

Speaking of prices. . .I’ve noticed substantial increases in the prices for some lines, especially passenger boats run by private companies. Jadrolinija has done a good job holding the line on price increases. In effect, the prices are the same as last year. Some of the smaller companies are making trips to the Croatian islands much more expensive, probably because of this year’s increase in fuel prices. Jadrolinija is state-subsidized which takes some of the pressure off.  Whenever possible, I recommend looking for a Jadrolinija ferry to take you to your destination. See more budget tips for your Croatian holiday.

Island-Hopping

Even with the price increases, island-hopping in Croatia is an incomparable experience. Curiously, it’s easier to day-trip to an island or to island-hop as a foot passenger than it is with a car. Car ferry links between islands are few and far between except for the coastal car ferry which only runs twice a week anyway. The easiest island to visit on a day trip from Split is Brac island with a daily boat that leaves in the morning from Split to Milna and returns in the afternoon. Vis island is a longer trip and can also be reached on a day trip from Split but only in July and August. For island-hopping you can go from Split to Bol on Brac and then to Jelsa on Hvar island (not on the same day) or Split to Hvar and then Korcula island (also not on the same day). There is a Korcula-Dubrovnik connection but only four days a week and only in July and August. And in Dubrovnik, you can do a day trip to Mljet island to visit the National Park (only in summer) or out to the unspoiled Elaphiti Islands.

You can work out all these trips and more in my handy ferry guide!

St Blaise

Dubrovnik in February? But of course. In the beginning of February Dubrovnik denizens turn out in force to celebrate their beloved city. The occasion is the Festival of St Blaise (Sv Vlaho), the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Statues of St Blaise dot the walled city and of course there is the splendid Church of St Blaise at the beginning of Stradun. It was to St Blaise that fearful residents prayed during the bombing of Dubrovnik in 1991.

Before the official opening of the festival on February 2 there are several weeks of special concerts, plays and exhibitions centered on the theme of St Blaise. February 3 is the feast day of St Blaise and for the two following days religious and secular events mark the special connection of Dubrovnik with Saint Blaise.

Here is the schedule of events for this year’s festival:
Thursday, February 2, 2012

Dubrovnik Cliffs

When former tourism minister, Pave Zupan Ruskovic, commented that Dubrovnik could do without “drunk and crazy” Kiwis and Aussies, she was pilloried and then sacked from her job as destination manager in Dubrovnik. Tourism authorities hastened to reassure visitors from Down Under that they were more than welcome. But was she right? Could it be that these young revelers are a menace to themselves and others?

According to an Australian newspaper, there were no less than five Aussie backpackers in a year who plunged from southern Croatian cliffs into the waters below, some narrowly escaping with their lives. From slipping down ravines to misjudging cliff dives, the toll in injuries has been fierce. Is it unreasonable to assume that alcohol has played a role in these accidents? I think not.

Despite the speed with which Ms. Ruskovic lost her job, it appears that Aussies themselves agree with her. Sydney-based The Age conducted an online poll and found that 91% of respondents agreed that “the truth hurts–Australians behave appallingly”. Ouch.

Any visitor to Dubrovnik needs to be aware that binge-drinking is not–yet– a part of Croatian youth culture. Most Croatians have a Mediterranean attitude towards drinking: they appreciate wine with meals and homemade schnapps but getting blackout drunk is usually not their scene. And another thing to remember: the waters under Dubrovnik cliffs cover sharp rocks!