Croatia Travel Blog

As everywhere in Croatia, prices are marching ever upward in Split. Before getting in a lather about it, take a look at the prices in a local supermarket. They’re the same as most other European destinations! That is, you can’t expect restauranteurs to give a break to their customers when they’re paying through the nose. Still, you can get good value if you sniff around. Here are the results of my recent dining ventures:

Buffet Fife

This old stand-by is in the newly trendy Veli Varos neighbourhood, the old fisherman’s quarter, now restored and chock-full of private accommodation. The action centers around Sperun square where there are a bunch of cafes and restaurants steadily moving upscale. Buffet Fife remains true to its calling as a casual hangout for locals, backpackers and tourists at the end of their budget. The seating is family-style around big tables and the emphasis is on fish. To keep prices down and insure freshness, you won’t find the pricier fish such as sea-bream, but a nice selection of cheaper fish like mullet and mackerel. Hey, it’s better for you anyway! A plate of grilled fish with a side of vegetables and a glass of wine comes in under €9.

Sperun

This little place on Sperun square has wormed its way into a number of guidebooks. It’s not bad at all. A portion of your better quality fish will set you back about €12 but that’s a reasonable deal. There’s a full menu of meat, fish and vegetable plates starting at 45KN or about €7. I had a local speciality, Balacao, which is salt cod and potatoes in a casserole. I found it a little gummy but maybe that’s par for this dish, Dalmatian-style. Anyway, it was certainly filling. The service is young and enthusiastic but reserve ahead, especially on Saturday night.

Galija

I’d been coming here for years to enjoy the pizza which is probably the best in Split. At least, a steady stream of locals seem to think so. This time I decided to try the pasta. Mistake. Gnocchi with cream, mushrooms and salmon was a gloppy mess. Sometimes it’s best not to be too adventurous.

See more on restaurants in Split.