Croatia Travel Blog

Eko-centar Caput Insulae in Beli on Cres Island is my favorite nature-break in Croatia (despite its un-memorable name). Set up in 1993 by Goran Susic, a scientist from Zagreb University, the centre is a delightful, educational and inspiring venture dedicated to protecting the majestic Griffon vulture.

“I was spending my life studying the Griffon vulture and then I thought there’s no sense to it if they become extinct!” said Susic. So he chucked the world of academia, bought some land and a building on Cres Island and set up a rescue center and hospice for this threatened species.

With a wingspan of almost 3m and weighing up to 9kg, the bird looks big enough to take on passengers. Yet, their survival is fragile. Young birds are often scared out of their cliffside nests by passing boats and try to fly before they understand how to catch the seaside air currents. Soon they flop exhausted into the sea. Before the Eko-centar, many drowned. Now all the locals know to call Caput Insulae for a rescue team. The young birds are taken to the centre, fed and exercised until they are ready to fly away a few months later.

We visited Caput Insulae last week with a teen and tween, usually blasé when it comes to anything that smacks of an “educational” excursion. But their mouths fell open when we entered the special viewing room–constructed with a one-way mirror–and they saw a dead sheep in the middle of grassy knoll and a dozen or so mammoth vultures hovering overhead on platforms. Cres Island’s vultures feast on dead sheep, thoughtfully procured by the Eko-centar. Apparently it was not yet dinner time but the sight was impressive anyway.

The center includes much more than the vulture-stars. There’s a butterfly garden, botanical garden, eco-trails, labyrinths and soon a multimedia center. There are peaceful corners for rest and reflection, special games for kids and plenty of exhibits telling you all you need to know about vultures.  Yet, it’s not just about sensitizing visitors to the birds but also to the habitat that sustains them. It’s easy to spend a day there, especially when the coast is baking in the summer heat. The Eko-centar is always several degrees cooler.

Even more interesting is the Caput Insulae Volunteer Program. Volunteers staff and maintain the center, help in vulture rescues and accompany the visitors. They are well-lodged, eat local food and the international atmosphere seems most convivial. For a fuller description of the volunteer experience see this article in The Sunday Times. Contact Caput Insulae for more information and see more about Cres Island.

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