No wonder the people of Split are so trim and fit! To get away from the centuries-old stones and enjoy some Mediterranean vegetation the only solution is to climb up to Marjan hill. Overgrown with pine and cactus, the 125m-high Marjan hill is on a peninsula that juts out from west Split. Many, many steps take you from the Veli Varos neighbourhood up and up until you come to a caffe-bar with a splendid view that encompasses all Split and a good number of its off-shore islands. You can continue to climb the pine-shaded steps or take the sunny route that runs around the hill’s perimeter, passing small churches, a botanical garden and the tiny Split zoo.

Bene beach
Another way to explore the hill park is to enter on the northern side, rent a bike and cycle a few kilometers to the Bene beach sports complex. There’s a playground, tennis courts, a caffe-bar and the above beach. The road is closed to traffic and circles round Marjan hill on the outer perimeter where the shiny sea peeks behind the pines. There may be a more beautiful Mediterranean bike ride somewhere but right now I can’t think of one.

