Archive for the ‘Split’ Category
October 12th, 2009 | 
Author: It may be hard to tear yourself away from the Croatian islands and coast but a trip inland to Mostar is highly recommended. The most famous Mostar sight is the Old Bridge, built in 1556 and then, famously, blown up in 1993 during the last Balkan war. The bridge has been reconstructed and is as beautiful as ever, spanning the azur Neretva river with a mountainous backdrop.
The bridge has tremendous symbolic value as it links the Croat and Muslim communities each located on opposite sides of the river. Its destruction and reconstruction comprise one of the rare happy endings in the Balkans.
I started out from Split in mid-morning, taking the incompleted motorway south from Split until it ended somewhere after Sestanovic. I then followed Rt 62 which took me across the border at Metkovic. From there, it was just a matter of following the Neretva river north to Mostar. The ride was somewhat longer than I had expected, taking nearly 4 hours, largely because the road was unfamiliar. Still the trip was a little too long to be a viable day trip from Split.
Upon entering the perimeter of the Old Town, I was diverted by police away from the center. It turned out that a football match that evening was to involve opposing Muslim and Croat teams and police were preparing for possible violence (that fortunately never happened).
I checked into the wonderful Hotel Kriva Cuptija 2 (excellent value for money) and set out to explore the Old Town. On the way, the vestiges of the 1990s war were apparent in a number of buildings with pockmarked sides and blasted-out windows. The ancient cobblestoned streets on either side of the river were restored and bustling with life. The differences between the Croat and Muslim side were subtle: a few churches on one side; a few more mosques and cafes on the other. Everywhere the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly; people chatted easily with each other and with an inquisitive foreigner. The vivacious young woman at the hotel reception exuded hope and optimism for the future, assuring me that the days of ethnic hostilities were ancient history to the younger generation.
The following day I left for Dubrovnik and the trip was a very leisurely three hours, making Mostar a fascinating and easily doable day trip from Dubrovnik. Note that you will need to show your passport upon crossing the border as well as your auto insurance papers.
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As everywhere in Croatia, prices are marching ever upward in Split. Before getting in a lather about it, take a look at the prices in a local supermarket. They’re the same as most other European destinations! That is, you can’t expect restauranteurs to give a break to their customers when they’re paying through the nose. Still, you can get good value if you sniff around. Here are the results of my recent dining ventures:
Buffet Fife
This old stand-by is in the newly trendy Veli Varos neighbourhood, the old fisherman’s quarter, now restored and chock-full of private accommodation. The action centers around Sperun square where there are a bunch of cafes and restaurants steadily moving upscale. Buffet Fife remains true to its calling as a casual hangout for locals, backpackers and tourists at the end of their budget. The seating is family-style around big tables and the emphasis is on fish. To keep prices down and insure freshness, you won’t find the pricier fish such as sea-bream, but a nice selection of cheaper fish like mullet and mackerel. Hey, it’s better for you anyway! A plate of grilled fish with a side of vegetables and a glass of wine comes in under €9.
Sperun
This little place on Sperun square has wormed its way into a number of guidebooks. It’s not bad at all. A portion of your better quality fish will set you back about €12 but that’s a reasonable deal. There’s a full menu of meat, fish and vegetable plates starting at 45KN or about €7. I had a local speciality, Balacao, which is salt cod and potatoes in a casserole. I found it a little gummy but maybe that’s par for this dish, Dalmatian-style. Anyway, it was certainly filling. The service is young and enthusiastic but reserve ahead, especially on Saturday night.
Galija
I’d been coming here for years to enjoy the pizza which is probably the best in Split. At least, a steady stream of locals seem to think so. This time I decided to try the pasta. Mistake. Gnocchi with cream, mushrooms and salmon was a gloppy mess. Sometimes it’s best not to be too adventurous.
See more on restaurants in Split.
No wonder the people of Split are so trim and fit! To get away from the centuries-old stones and enjoy some Mediterranean vegetation the only solution is to climb up to Marjan hill. Overgrown with pine and cactus, the 125m-high Marjan hill is on a peninsula that juts out from west Split. Many, many steps take you from the Veli Varos neighbourhood up and up until you come to a caffe-bar with a splendid view that encompasses all Split and a good number of its off-shore islands. You can continue to climb the pine-shaded steps or take the sunny route that runs around the hill’s perimeter, passing small churches, a botanical garden and the tiny Split zoo.
Bene beach
Another way to explore the hill park is to enter on the northern side, rent a bike and cycle a few kilometers to the Bene beach sports complex. There’s a playground, tennis courts, a caffe-bar and the above beach. The road is closed to traffic and circles round Marjan hill on the outer perimeter where the shiny sea peeks behind the pines. There may be a more beautiful Mediterranean bike ride somewhere but right now I can’t think of one.
