Croatia Travel Blog

Archive for the ‘Pula’ Category

For years Valsabbion restaurant, just outside Pula, has been considered one of Croatia’s finest gastronomic restaurants, maybe even the finest. Part of the Valsabbion hotel, the restaurant was known for its creative, even daring dishes, a rarity along the Croatian coast where expertly grilled fish is usually enough to please the crowd. Yes, it was pricey relative to other local restaurants but the quality was superb. A similar meal would cost many times more in neighbouring Italy. What happened? In an interview, owner Sonja Peric remarked that the cost of running such a restaurant was extremely high and the profits were negligible. It seems that the local population does not have the financial means to support such a restaurant and tourists are too easily satisfied with a seaside inn serving inexpensive food.

It’s a serious blow to the Croatian gastronomic scene just at a time when Croatian food and wine is starting to attract international attention. Yes there are other restaurants in Pula but none, frankly, at that level.

It was sweltering in downtown Pula but we had to check out the Roman amphitheatre of course. A cleanup of the facade was underway which the ancient structure desperately needed. I especially liked the cool cellars underneath the amphitheatre which harbored an exhibit on the Roman presence in Istria.

 

 

 

Pula has a thriving cultural life all year round. In the summer, a regular series of performances are held in the amphitheatre. The rest of the year film, music, dance and theatre troupes continue to stage regular events. We were treated to a dance show in the town center which showcased the astonishing variety of styles taught in the local dance schools.

 

 

 

We stayed in Verudela, a resort area about 5km out of town, with a number of hotels and a stretch of rocky beach. It was peaceful but even better was heading out to the Premantura peninsula which has been turned into a protected nature park. There are a number of rocky beaches tucked away along the rocky shoreline. We chose Kamenjak Rt, a popular spot for bathing locals. No wonder! The water was incredibly clear and the snorkeling was fantastic.

 

 

 

We finished up our stay with a trip to the Brijuni Islands National Park a place of historical interest as it was the residence of former Yugoslav President Tito and of tremendous natural beauty.

Let bygones be bygones! In a series of moves to put a fractured past behind them, Serbia and Croatia are forging new transport ties. This summer will see the introduction of two new flights from Belgrade: one to Pula and one to Dubrovnik.

Of the two, I find the flights to Dubrovnik the most surprising as the city, famously, suffered badly in the bombing of 1991. It’s been 19 years since the last flight between Belgrade and Dubrovnik. Now there will be two flights weekly, beginning June 20 and running until September 7. It is not yet clear whether Croatia’s national carrier, Croatia Airlines, or Serbia’s airline, JAT will operate the route.

Fewer details are available for the Belgrade-Pula route except that it will resume this summer after a two-year absence.

See more on flights to Croatia.

 

Venezia Lines has been running seasonal passenger ferries to Istria for many years and the tradition continues in 2011. Ferries from Venice to Porec, Pula, Rovinj, Rabac and Mali Losinj start in early April and run to the beginning of October. As usual, the ferries are more frequent in the summer and taper off in the shoulder season. The main change this year is that there is no longer a route from Venice to Piran in Slovenia but all else remains in place.

The Venice-Istria route is particularly useful for Croatia travellers this year as there are now direct flights between Venice and Dubrovnik. That means that you can take a catamaran to Istria from Venice, rent a car, and travel down the coast to Dubrovnik before catching a flight back to Venice.  I highly recommend this itinerary if you’d like to incorporate a trip through Croatia into your Italian holiday. Driving from Venice is not feasible as most car companies do not allow a pick-up in Venice and a drop-off in Dubrovnik. Notice, however that most Venice-Istria routes are in the late afternoon.

See the Venice-Istria schedules here and book online.

 

It’s just gotten easier for visitors who want to travel the northern Croatian coast by boat. LNP has just started their summer catamaran service that connects Pula in Istria with Mali Losinj and Zadar, stopping at Unije and Ilovik islands en route. The service began on 2 June and continues until 30 September. The catamaran runs twice a week except in July and August when it runs up to five times week.

The same company runs the ferry between Lopar on Rab Island and Valbiska on Krk Island. Service is all year but more frequent in the summer. See the schedules and booking information.