Archive for the ‘Istria’ Category
January 25th, 2012 | 
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Valsabbion Restaurant
For years Valsabbion restaurant, just outside Pula, has been considered one of Croatia’s finest gastronomic restaurants, maybe even the finest. Part of the Valsabbion hotel, the restaurant was known for its creative, even daring dishes, a rarity along the Croatian coast where expertly grilled fish is usually enough to please the crowd. Yes, it was pricey relative to other local restaurants but the quality was superb. A similar meal would cost many times more in neighbouring Italy. What happened? In an interview, owner Sonja Peric remarked that the cost of running such a restaurant was extremely high and the profits were negligible. It seems that the local population does not have the financial means to support such a restaurant and tourists are too easily satisfied with a seaside inn serving inexpensive food.
It’s a serious blow to the Croatian gastronomic scene just at a time when Croatian food and wine is starting to attract international attention. Yes there are other restaurants in Pula but none, frankly, at that level.
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As 2011 draws to a close and travel publishers issue their “Best” lists, Istria has emerged as the must- see, must- visit, must-go destination of the year.
Lonely Planet placed Istria number 2 on its “top ten regions” in this article.
Travel and Leisure named Istria as a “life-changing trip” in this article.
National Geographic named Istria “best of the world” in this article.
Is this a case of jumping on the bandwagon? Maybe a little bit. After all, Istria has had the same mild climate, great wine, sparkling sea and rolling hills since the Romans marched in 2000 years ago. The Venetians built the colorful port towns, the Austrians built the infrastructure, the Italians left their cuisine, Tito built the hotels and not too much has changed since except that the hotels have sprouted wellness centers.
So why is Istria bursting onto the “best of” lists now? Because Istria is relatively unknown to the American market (and thus, readers of National Geo and T & L) and seems like a daring alternative to the over-familiarity of Tuscany and the French Riviera. That’s not to say that Istria doesn’t deserve all the attention. It does! By all means, swim the waters, dine in the fine restaurants, bike the hills and wander the old towns. But book ahead because I have a sneaking feeling that, after all these lists, Istria is going to be very, very busy next year.
See more about Istria; read about my visit to Istria this year
What is a “design hotel” anyway? I know that was my first question before checking into the Hotel Lone in Rovinj. Will I need a user manual to turn on the faucets? Will my eyes open each morning to garish and puzzling paintings?
The answer to both questions at this remarkable new hotel is a resounding no. As the Hotel Lone explains on their website, a design hotel “nurtures the concept of interesting and functional spatial design”. Put simply, the Hotel Lone is beautiful in every way and its beauty encompasses ease, comfort, and the simple luxury of exquisite good taste.
Located within the Zlatni Rt forested park, a few minutes from Rovinj’s town center, the Hotel Lone is surrounded by old growth pine trees with the Adriatic glimmering a few hundred meters away. Now how do you create a thoroughly modern hotel in harmony with a wooded landscape? Why, you think of a cruise ship floating on the sea of course. The curving lines and stacked white balconies recall the prow and decks of an ocean liner floating on a sea of green.
For the interior of this 248-room hotel, the designers turned back in time for inspiration. The Croatian coast is dotted with massive but somewhat bland hotels built in the 70s to cater to package tourists.
The Hotel Lone design team used the spacious lobbies from that era but replaced the boxy look with an exciting and contemporary organization of space. The public areas incorporate three restaurants, a conference center that can seat 600 people, a night club, children’s club and a wellness center all organized around an atrium that stretches up six floors. Despite the size, the clever arrangement of furniture and decoration makes the lobby a comfortable place to relax.
The white, black and lustrous oak of the lobby area is carried over into the rooms each of which has a park or sea view and a balcony. Sure there are all the bells and whistles of a five-star hotel: plush bathrobes, top-end toiletries, flat-screen TV, free WiFi, separate tub and shower. But what really stands out is the sheer beauty of the design. Floor to ceiling mirrors are placed to reflect the outdoor scenery. A fabric wall covering illuminated from behind softens the bed area. Oak shutters separate the bathroom from the room which allows natural light to penetrate the bathroom while preserving privacy. The effect was soothing and I didn’t need to stress about how to regulate the AC, make a phone call or change channels on the TV. Everything was logical, well-explained and un-fussy.
Chain hotels have their place, but when I’m away from home I want to experience the country. Perhaps the most exciting aspect of the Hotel Lone is that it showcases the very best of Croatian artists, designers, architects and materials. The oak is from Slavonia; the architectural team is Zagreb-based 3LHD working in conjunction with the design team, Numen/ForUse; young Croatian artists Ivana Franke and Silvio Vujčić contributed sculpture and decorative elements. Even lamps, chairs and desks are designed and manufactured in Croatia.
I could have spent a week in the Hotel Lone. Soaking in the wellness center, swimming in the pools (outdoor and indoor) strolling the grounds, sampling the restaurants or just gazing at the view from my balcony would have been enough even without nearby Rovinj and the magnificent Zlatni Rt park. Alas, it was time to move on and all that was left was a memory. But what a memory.
Find out more about the Hotel Lone and book a room.
It was sweltering in downtown Pula but we had to check out the Roman amphitheatre of course. A cleanup of the facade was underway which the ancient structure desperately needed. I especially liked the cool cellars underneath the amphitheatre which harbored an exhibit on the Roman presence in Istria.
Pula has a thriving cultural life all year round. In the summer, a regular series of performances are held in the amphitheatre. The rest of the year film, music, dance and theatre troupes continue to stage regular events. We were treated to a dance show in the town center which showcased the astonishing variety of styles taught in the local dance schools.
We stayed in Verudela, a resort area about 5km out of town, with a number of hotels and a stretch of rocky beach. It was peaceful but even better was heading out to the Premantura peninsula which has been turned into a protected nature park. There are a number of rocky beaches tucked away along the rocky shoreline. We chose Kamenjak Rt, a popular spot for bathing locals. No wonder! The water was incredibly clear and the snorkeling was fantastic.
We finished up our stay with a trip to the Brijuni Islands National Park a place of historical interest as it was the residence of former Yugoslav President Tito and of tremendous natural beauty.
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