Croatia Travel Blog

Zadar is one of Croatia’s most underrated destinations and I’m glad to see that the travel section of the NYTimes has finally gotten around to highlighting this wonderful city in this article. 

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It’s that time of year when you start dreaming about drifting from island to island, being governed by nothing but the prevailing winds and your own whims. Well, the Croatian Islands are there to satisfy your every nautical fantasy. No matter your level of experience and/or energy level, there’s a way for you to sail the Croatian coast.

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The venerable NYT has been a little late on the uptake when it comes to Croatia but is making up for it. This past weekend, Croatia appeared twice. A piece on family vacations correctly noted the many opportunities for active vacations in Croatia that include sailing, cycling and kayaking on the “Dalmatian Riviera” which runs from Split to Dubrovnik.

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This issue (November 2007) of Islands magazine features an enticing article on remote Vis Island, giving the island a well-deserved boost of publicity. Writer Jeff Greenwald started his Croatia island journey on better-known Korcula Island, staying in the Hotel Korcula. After listening to local tales of the Marco Polo-Korcula connection (islanders are convinced the legendary explorer was born in Korcula Town) the writer heads out to farther shores, that is, Vis Island.

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The invisible force field that draws the sleek & chic to Hvar Town, has left the rest of Hvar Island in delightful semi-obscurity. A recent article in the Toronto Star discusses the village of Humac on Hvar Island, reached by a scary mountain road weaving precariously over the cliffs. Fortunately, the article inaccurately describes this road as “the main thoroughfare on this 68-kilometre-long island”. No. The main thoroughfare is a modern, inland road that connects Hvar Town, Stari Grad and Jelsa. I suppose that if you’re living in Humac though, that mountain road counts as a thoroughfare.

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“Coastal Croatia by Bicycle: Sea, Sun, Truffles” is the curious title of the recent NYTimes piece recounting Nathaniel Vinton’s cycling trip through Istria. Why “coastal Croatia”? I don’t get it. The article is mostly about the Istrian interior with a small mention of Rovinj which of course is on the coast. I get the feeling Mr. Vinton plainly prefers the Istrian interior to the coast which, truth to tell, is my preference as well. Rovinj, Porec, Pula et al. have plenty of history and architectural interest, not to mention that vast expanse of blue water right nearby, but to experience a calmer, more authentic Croatia, you simply must venture into the interior, preferable by bicycle. The rolling interior is perfect for cycling and for a real workout you can pedal up to the hill villages of Motovun and Groznjan. Both are not quite as undiscovered as this article implies but they are nonetheless delightful. I’m glad (I think) he mentioned Grascice, outside Pazin. Now that is truly a sleepy little village! Go to article.

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