Croatia Travel Blog

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As 2011 draws to a close and travel publishers issue their “Best” lists, Istria has emerged as the must- see, must- visit, must-go destination of the year.

Lonely Planet placed Istria number 2 on its “top ten regions” in this article.

Travel and Leisure named Istria as a “life-changing trip” in this article.

National Geographic named Istria “best of the world” in this article.

Is this a case of jumping on the bandwagon? Maybe a little bit. After all, Istria has had the same mild climate, great wine, sparkling sea and rolling hills since the Romans marched in 2000 years ago. The Venetians built the colorful port towns, the Austrians built the infrastructure, the Italians left their cuisine, Tito built the hotels and not too much has changed since except that the hotels have sprouted wellness centers.

So why is Istria bursting onto the “best of” lists now? Because  Istria is relatively unknown to the American market (and thus, readers of National Geo and T & L) and seems like a daring alternative to the over-familiarity of Tuscany and the French Riviera. That’s not to say that Istria doesn’t deserve all the attention. It does! By all means, swim the waters, dine in the fine restaurants, bike the hills and wander the old towns. But book ahead because I have a sneaking feeling that, after all these lists, Istria is going to be very, very busy next year.

See more about Istria; read about my visit to Istria this year

Cape Kamenjak

Recently, National Geographic Traveler selected Istria as one of the “10 Best Summer Trips of 2011“. Correctly noting that Istria is “not as familiar to North Americans as Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast” the article went on to highlight Istria beaches. It’s an interesting choice as Istria’s best-known attractions tend to be more cultural in nature (think Pula’s Roman Amphitheatre or Porec’s Euphasian Basilica) but there’s a lot of coastline on the Istrian peninsula and a lot of swimmable sea. The water is crystal clean as there’s no industry in the region but it is a few degrees colder than Croatia’s southern shores. I liked that the article pointed out the rugged beauty of Cape Kamenjak and the milder pleasures of Umag beaches but there’s more. . .so much more. Like Rovinj, the Brijuni Islands, artistic Motovun, musical Groznjan, Jules Verne’s Pazin. The list of things to see and do in Istria goes on and on. There’s a reason why it’s been dubbed the “new Tuscany” (but without the high prices). Go to article or read more about Istria.

As my personal holiday favorite, I was happy to see Opatija highlighted in this week’s Telegraph. Travel writer Julia Warren noted that Austrian musicians will present a special concert in Opatija on April 23 featuring music by Mozart, Dvorak and Bartok. Fittingly enough, the concert will take place in the opulent Crystal Ballroom of the Hotel Kvarner, once a choice address for vacationing Austrians. Although the hotel is now outclassed by the five-star Hotel Ambassador with its luxuriant spa, the faded elegance of the Kvarner still holds allure.

A tourism official remarks forlornly in the article that Opatija feels “forgotten” in comparison to high-profile Dubrovnik which is true but Opatija could learn some lessons from the relentless self-promotion of its southern sister. For example, the lovely Villa Angelina is, as Ms. Warren notes, now home to. . .a museum of Opatija tourism. Surely a more compelling use could be found for this 19th-century villa.

With its ice cream parlours, flaky pastries, Belle Epoque structures and a restful seaside promenade, Opatija successfully evokes another age and it remains a great base for further explorations. Nearby Volosko has one of Croatia’s finest restaurants, Plavi Podrum, and not much farther is Lovran, another architectural delight. Nature-lovers can easily take a ferry to unspoiled Cres Island and its famous griffon vultures.

Read more about Opatija

Lozsica in the interior of Brac

Leave it to the Telegraph and their comprehensive Croatia coverage to introduce Brac Island. Although hardly unknown to British travellers, Brac Island is often too hastily disposed of in the general rush to southern Dalmatia. And it’s a pity. Sure Brac Island has miles of coastline and the unusual Zlatni Rat beach near Bol, but the interior of Brac Island is also well worth a visit. It’s not as lush as Korcula,  Hvar or other Croatian islands further south, but the stark, stony landscape emits its own beauty. This article gives a good overview of the walking tours available on Brac and it’s most enticing. I had always wanted to visit Blaca and the Dragon’s Cave but never had time. On my next trip to Brac I intend to make the effort. Maybe with Footsteps in Croatia, the walking tour company recommended in the article.

See more on Brac Island.

Saplunara Beach, Mljet

Where are the best beaches in Croatia? Today’s Telegraph has a photo essay on the best beaches in Istria and the best beaches in Dalmatia. I found that there are some surprising choices. But then again, everyone has their own, highly personal beach preferences. The author of this article, Jon Bousfield, certainly knows Croatia as he’s written a number of excellent books for Rough Guides. His taste clearly leans toward the remoter outposts. Sandy beaches are not a priority for him. He likes Rovinj‘s Lone Beach (so do I) and Lovran‘s Medveja despite the fact that neither are sandy. There are a few (very few) sandy beaches in Istria but they are generally known only to locals. See more on  sandy beaches in Istria.

In Dalmatia, I found that Proizd islet off Vela Luka was a curious choice. As he makes clear, the “beach” is basically a slab of rock. Yuck. Not for me. I’ll take Saplunara on Mljet Island any day. His choice of sandy Sunj Beach on Lopud Island (an easy day trip from Dubrovnik), I’ll heartily second but it can get uncomfortably crowded in summer. And as for Kraljicina Plaza, near Nin, I confess I don’t know it. But it looks splendid and well worth the effort to find it.

See a photo gallery of Croatia beaches; my choice of the best beaches in Croatia and the best beaches in Istria.