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    Way back when, there was only the Hotel Neptun, a perfectly acceptable three-star hotel on Dubrovnik’s Babin Kuk peninsula. With its calm surroundings and rooms with sea views it had always been a favourite. Then, with the dawning of the new millennium it seemed ready for an upgrade. And so it was done. Now there’s the four-star Hotel Neptun and the five-star Hotel Ariston, Importanne Suites and Villa Elita, all part of the Importanne Resort.

    A recent stay in the  Importanne Suites revealed accommodation ready to take a top spot on the global luxury hotel scene. These spacious suites are lodged in their own building, discreetly bordered by stone walkways and Mediterranean greenery. As the resort reception area is in Hotel Neptun, walking into the Importanne suites is like entering a private home with plush rugs and comfortable sofas. It was thoughtful to place a row of umbrellas downstairs just in case the weather turned.

    The suites are composed of two rooms: a bedroom and a living room with a small kitchenette area should you want to prepare champagne and canapes. The decor was soothing but cheerfully modern. Each room had its own bathroom which would be convenient both for couples and for those entertaining business guests. I liked that there was free internet access; so many hotels charge for it. Plus there was a flat-screen TV and telephone in each room–again perfect for those combining business and pleasure.

    Perhaps the best part was the immense balcony facing south. The view over the Adriatic was unforgettable, particularly with the sun setting on the right.

    Sunset from the Importanne Suites

    Sunset from the Importanne Suites

    The breakfast buffet (shared with the Importanne Resort) was copious and delicious with freshly-baked pastries, meat, eggs, cheese and lots of fresh fruit. Afterwards, there’s lolling by the swimming pool, plunging into the Adriatic, taking a peaceful seaside stroll to Lapad or hopping on a bus for a quick ride to the Old Town. It was the full resort experience and I loved it.

    See more about the Importanne Resort.

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    At first, I thought it would be a good idea to stay in central Trogir. I’m so glad I didn’t. Although the architecture of this World Heritage Site is wonderful, it’s not exactly a hidden treasure. Wow, was it busy! So, I stayed in Ciovo, a beach resort just outside the Old Town, and sampled the hospitality of Ira and Boris Rakic who run Villa Pape.

    I’ve often extolled the virtues of staying in private accommodation in Croatia, and Villa Pape is one of the reasons why. Set on a hill overlooking the Ciovo islet, the guesthouse is in a quiet location away from the hubub. It’s easy to reach Trogir but who wants to? Ira and Boris have created such a warm and welcoming atmosphere in their guesthouse, it’s hard to leave. I felt so at home in my spacious, well-outfitted apartment I could have stayed forever. For those new to the region, Ira provides a wealth of sightseeing tips as she has made a study of local history and lore, especially the Roman ruins of Salona.

    And, here’s a tip: sample one of Ira’s homecooked meals. The lady is an amazing cook, specializing in the kind of local fare you don’t find in restaurants. The Villa Pape website has some good recipes but there’s nothing like letting the expert cook. Plus, Ira is committed to supporting local products and sustainable agriculture. No store-bought produce for her!

    Villa Pape has an assortment of rooms and apartments, all modern and reasonably-priced.

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    To me, one of the ultimate hotel luxuries is being able to fall asleep to the sound of waves on the shoreline. Air-conditioning is nice of course, but if I can leave the windows open and get a refreshing  breeze while the sea’s rhythm lulls me to sleep, I’m in heaven. And I was in heaven at the four-star Dubrovnik President Hotel. 

    This venerable hotel was completely and totally overhauled from 2005 to 2006. The spacious rooms cleverly employ subdued whites and gentle pastels to create a halo of soft light. The decor is contemporary without being overdesigned. (You don’t need a manual to turn on the lights). Even better are the immense terraces that stretch out from  each room to the sea which leave you with the feeling that you’re alone with the sea and the sky.

    Unfortunately I was too busy to get toned up in the new Wellness Centre, but I did have time for a swim. The Dubrovnik President is known for having the best hotel beach in Dubrovnik. As it’s a private beach, it’s never too crowded plus it’s standards of cleanliness have merited Blue Flag recognition.

    The Dubrovnik President is in the Babin Kuk part of Dubrovnik which means that you’re out of the tourist frenzy that swirls around Dubrovnik’s Old Town. A shuttle bus whisks you into town in no time and at the end of a hectic day, it’s nice to relax amid the comfort and elegance that comes with a four-star hotel. I particularly appreciated the live music in the hotel’s aperitif bar. I happened upon “Jazz Night” and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the group. And then, back in my room, it was just me, the moon and the waves.

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    I’ve known the Bebic family for years, ever since I first started writing Lonely Planet guides, so staying at the Pansion Bebic in  Lumbarda, Korcula  was a kind of homecoming. But I think it’s kind of a homecoming for everyone that stays at their hospitable guesthouse. Just walking into their terrace-restaurant makes you feel at home. Their spacious dining terrace forms a center to the modern and comfortable apartments and rooms that make up this traditional pension. And, it signals the importance of meals to the “Bebic Experience”. 

    The Bebic family is committed to sharing the Korcula lifestyle with their guests. The homecooked meals are complemented by an array of homemade products from Bebic wine to Bebic travarica. Their committment to authenticity is expressed in meals of traditional Korculan favourites.

    But you can do more than just eat! Just go down a few stairs and you’re right at the crystal clean sea. Or, let Bebic organize a boatride for you that will take you through the archipelago of lush islands just off the Korculan coast. If Korculan culture tempts you, enjoy one of Bebic’s Musical Evenings where local groups serenade you with Dalmatian tunes.

    You may not want to leave your comfortable cocoon, but if you do, there are the vineyards and beaches of Lumbarda right at hand and, further afield, walled Korcula town.

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