2008 June | Croatia Travel Blog

Archive for June, 2008

Jadrolinija Ferries

June 30th 2008

Every trip to Croatia I learn something new and, I hope, useful to others. I’ve always known that Jadrolinija ups their prices for the June to September ferries but it never really hit home because I usually travel to Croatia off-season.

Naturally I expected to pay a healthy price to cross the Adriatic (from Ancona to Zadar) and to take the overnight coastal ferry–the Marco Polo– from Korcula to Rijeka. I took an inside cabin with private facilities for both legs and was extremely comfortable. I highly recommend taking a cabin on the coastal ferry even if your journey is only during the day; the lounge areas and lobby of the Marco Polo can be quite noisy and it’s hard to find a place to stretch out. Cabin passengers have their own little lounge area. Nice!

Getting back to prices, I discovered that taking a car onto a ferry to the islands is so expensive that it can be a much better deal to rent a car for a day while you’re on the island. The only time it makes economic sense to ferry out your car is if you’re staying a few days. But if you do need to rent a car upon arrival, make sure it’s not a Sunday when many local travel agencies that rent cars are closed.

Villa Pape, Trogir

June 30th 2008

At first, I thought it would be a good idea to stay in central Trogir. I’m so glad I didn’t. Although the architecture of this World Heritage Site is wonderful, it’s not exactly a hidden treasure. Wow, was it busy! So, I stayed in Ciovo, a beach resort just outside the Old Town, and sampled the hospitality of Ira and Boris Rakic who run Villa Pape.

I’ve often extolled the virtues of staying in private accommodation in Croatia, and Villa Pape is one of the reasons why. Set on a hill overlooking the Ciovo islet, the guesthouse is in a quiet location away from the hubub. It’s easy to reach Trogir but who wants to? Ira and Boris have created such a warm and welcoming atmosphere in their guesthouse, it’s hard to leave. I felt so at home in my spacious, well-outfitted apartment I could have stayed forever. For those new to the region, Ira provides a wealth of sightseeing tips as she has made a study of local history and lore, especially the Roman ruins of Salona.

And, here’s a tip: sample one of Ira’s homecooked meals. The lady is an amazing cook, specializing in the kind of local fare you don’t find in restaurants. The Villa Pape website has some good recipes but there’s nothing like letting the expert cook. Plus, Ira is committed to supporting local products and sustainable agriculture. No store-bought produce for her!

Villa Pape has an assortment of rooms and apartments, all modern and reasonably-priced.

Valamar Dubrovnik President

June 30th 2008

To me, one of the ultimate hotel luxuries is being able to fall asleep to the sound of waves on the shoreline. Air-conditioning is nice of course, but if I can leave the windows open and get a refreshing breeze while the sea’s rhythm lulls me to sleep, I’m in heaven. And I was in heaven at the four-star Dubrovnik President Hotel.

This venerable hotel was completely and totally overhauled from 2005 to 2006. The spacious rooms cleverly employ subdued whites and gentle pastels to create a halo of soft light. The decor is contemporary without being overdesigned. (You don’t need a manual to turn on the lights). Even better are the immense terraces that stretch out from each room to the sea which leave you with the feeling that you’re alone with the sea and the sky.

Unfortunately I was too busy to get toned up in the new Wellness Centre, but I did have time for a swim. The Dubrovnik President is known for having the best hotel beach in Dubrovnik. As it’s a private beach, it’s never too crowded plus it’s standards of cleanliness have merited Blue Flag recognition.

The Dubrovnik President is in the Babin Kuk part of Dubrovnik which means that you’re out of the tourist frenzy that swirls around Dubrovnik’s Old Town. A shuttle bus whisks you into town in no time and at the end of a hectic day, it’s nice to relax amid the comfort and elegance that comes with a four-star hotel. I particularly appreciated the live music in the hotel’s aperitif bar. I happened upon “Jazz Night” and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the group. And then, back in my room, it was just me, the moon and the waves.

Pansion Bebic, Lumbarda

June 30th 2008

I’ve known the Bebic family for years, ever since I first started writing Lonely Planet guides, so staying at the Pansion Bebic in Lumbarda, Korcula was a kind of homecoming. But I think it’s kind of a homecoming for everyone that stays at their hospitable guesthouse. Just walking into their terrace-restaurant makes you feel at home. Their spacious dining terrace forms a center to the modern and comfortable apartments and rooms that make up this traditional pension. And, it signals the importance of meals to the “Bebic Experience”.

The Bebic family is committed to sharing the Korcula lifestyle with their guests. The homecooked meals are complemented by an array of homemade products from Bebic wine to Bebic travarica. Their committment to authenticity is expressed in meals of traditional Korculan favourites.

But you can do more than just eat! Just go down a few stairs and you’re right at the crystal clean sea. Or, let Bebic organize a boatride for you that will take you through the archipelago of lush islands just off the Korculan coast. If Korculan culture tempts you, enjoy one of Bebic’s Musical Evenings where local groups serenade you with Dalmatian tunes.

You may not want to leave your comfortable cocoon, but if you do, there are the vineyards and beaches of Lumbarda right at hand and, further afield, walled Korcula town.

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Valamar Hotel & Resorts: The Video Library

June 10th 2008

I don’t know about you but I rely a lot more on pictures than I do on prose when choosing a hotel. One person’s “modern” is another person”s “bland”. The hotel I find quaint you might find old-fashioned. Maybe because of the internet, I would find it nearly unthinkable to book a hotel now without examining a series of pictures.

But even pictures can lie, as anyone skilled in Photoshop knows. Videos are the latest thing and, on that score, Valamar hotels is leading the way. Croatia’s largest hotel chain Valamar Hotel & Resorts now has videos on its website of all 38 hotels, apartment villages and campsites. It’s a great idea and well-executed. Each video runs about two minutes and covers everything from check-in at the hotel reception to drinks at the bar, meals in the restaurant, available activities and, of course, the rooms. It’s amazing how much hotel atmosphere can be conveyed in a short video.

Take Porec, for example, known for its UNESCO-protected Euphrasian Basilica. Valamar Hotels and Resorts runs nine hotels and six apartment villages and in and around town apart from the all-inclusive Valamar Club Tamaris for active families. If you need to know the difference between staying at the four-star Valamar Diamant and the three-star Valamar Luna Active Resort, a few minutes watching the hotel videos will make it all clear.

Leaving Porec and travelling down the Croatian coast there are Valamar hotels in Rabac, Krk Island and, finally four hotels in Dubrovnik. The Argosy and Tirena are good-value three-star hotels; the Dubrovnik President is a splendid four-star establishment and the Valamar Club Dubrovnik is there for active families. Which to choose? Start with the videos at www.valamar.com

Valamar Club Tamaris